ISTANBUL RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATIONS
Below we reproduce the restaurant section from the new Blue Guide Istanbul. We welcome comments and suggestions:
Istanbul is particularly well-endowed with excellent restaurants, which cater to every taste and social class. The gastronomic spectrum includes de luxe Western-style restaurants in the modern sections of Istanbul, excellent kebab lokantas in the old city, famous fish-restaurants along the Bosphorus, and simple little working-men’s cookshops dotted all over town. It would be impractical to list all the good restaurants in the city, for there are hundreds in every category; what follows is just a selection.
Travellers wishing to experience something of the flavour of Turkey are advised to eat in those restaurants which the Turks themselves frequent. The most popular are the old-fashioned meyhanes, taverns that serve traditional Turkish meze.
The least expensive restaurants are designated as $ and the most expensive as $$$$. They are listed separately for three general areas:
For Blue Guides Recommended (R), see p. 291.
$$$$
Asitane. Well-regarded restaurant just beside Kariye Müzesi, serving revived recipes from the courts of the sultans. Fatih Mehmet was particularly fond of mantı (ravioli). Kariye Camii Sk. 6, Edinrnekapı; T: 0212 635 7997, www.asitanerestaurant.com. Map p. 343, A3.
Darüzziyafe. Outstanding restaurant in the former imaret (public kitchen) of the Süleymaniye; specialises in Ottoman cuisine. Șifahane Cd. 6; T: 0212 511 8414, www.daruzaffiye.com. Map p. 348, B2.
Zeyrekhane. An elegant restaurant built on the terrace behind Zeyrek Camii, the church of the Pantocrator, with a stunning view of the Süleymaniye and the Golden Horn. Excellent food and service, with both western dishes and traditional Turkish cuisine. İbadethane Arkası Sk. 10, Zeyrek; T: 0212 532 278, www.zeyrekhane.com. Map p. 348, A1.
$$$
Develi. Meat restaurant, founded in 1912, on the Marmara shore in Samatya, with specialities from southeastern Anatolia; terrace in summer. Balıkpazarı, Gümüş Yüzük Sk. 7, Samatya; T: 0212 529 0811, www.develikebap.com/ Map p. 346, B3.
Hamdi. Famous lokanta near Yeni Cami. The top floor has views of the Golden Horn. Specialises in kebabs and baklava. No vegetarian. Tahmis Cd., Kalçın Sk. 17; T: 0212 528 0390, www.hamdi.com.tr. Map p. 349, D1.
Konyalı. Historic restaurant in the Fourth Courtyard of Topkapı, founded ‘to promote Turkish Cuisine to foreigners’. Don’t expect an ‘authentic’ Istanbul experience, but the views are superb. Lunch only. Closed Tues. Topkapı Sarayı, Sultanahmet; T: 0212 513 9696, www.konyalilokantasi.com. Map p. 349, F2.
Pandeli. Old Greek restaurant above the entrance to the Spice Bazaar; Turkish cuisine as well as international dishes; beautifully tiled interior. Mısır Çarşısı, Eminönü; T: 0212 527 3909, www.pandeli.com.tr. Map p. 349, D2.
Sarnıç. In a cavernous, brick-built ancient cistern, with tables placed among the pillars. Very atmospheric in the candlelight. Good food and service. Memorable atmosphere. Evenings only. Soğukçeşme Sk; T: 0212 512 4291, www.sarnicrestaurant.com. Map p. 349, E3.
$$
Karışma Sen. Traditional place near the Marmara shore; its name means ‘Mind Your Own Business’. Kennedy Cd. at Ahır Kapı; T: 0212 458 0081, www.karismasen.com. Map p. 349, E4.
Safa. Wonderful old-fashioned restaurant in Samatya. İmrahor İlyasbey Cd. 169, Samatya; T: 0212 585 5595. Map p. 346, B3.
$
Havuzlu. An old restaurant by the fountain in the Grand Bazaar, a favourite place to eat before or after shopping. Gani Çelebi Sk. 3, Kapalıçarşı; T: 0212 527 3346. Map p. 348, C3.
Caferağa Medrese. Simple but excellent eating-place in the picturesque courtyard of a 16th-century medrese opposite Haghia Sophia. Lunchtime only. Caferiye Sk; T: 0212 513 3601. Map p. 349, E3.
Subaşı. Located just opposite the entrance to the Grand Bazaar from the Nuruosmaniye Mosque. Nuruosmaniye Cd. 8, Çarşıkapı; T: 0212 522 4762. www.tarihisubasi.com Map p. 348, C3–D3.
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi. Famous köfte restaurant, said to serve more customers a day than anywhere else in Turkey. There are many imitations; the Tarihi is the original. Divanyolu Cd. 12A; T: 0212 520 0566, www.sultanahmetkoftesi.com. Map p. 349, E3.
| Beyoğlu |
$$$
Hacı Baba. Touristy but time-honoured restaurant, just off Taksim Square; terrace overlooking courtyard of the church of Haghia Triada. İstiklal Cd. 49; T: 0212 244 1886, web www.hacibabarest.com. Map p. 345, D2.
Meze by Lemon Tree. (R) Excellent small restaurant opposite the Pera Palace hotel serving beautifully prepared mezes in well-decorated surroundings. Here tradition takes on a new lease of life. Turkish favourites are prepared with real flair; clever taste combinations and well chosen ingredients make this place stand out. Meşrutiyet Cd. 83B; T: 0212 252 8302, www.mezze.com.tr. Map p. 344, C3.
Sensus. Wine bar and café near the Galata Tower stocking good Turkish wines. Büyük Hendek Cd. 5; T: 0212 245 5657. Map p. 344, C4
Asmalı Cavit. Excellent old meyhane with good mezes and a wonderful atmosphere, in a cosy, wood-panelled setting. Asmalı Mescit Cd. T: 0212 292 4950. Map p. 344, C3.
$$
Café Ara. Wonderful café-restaurant off Galatasaray Square, owned by the photographer Ara Güler, whose images of Istanbul adorn the walls. Tosbağa Sk. 8A, Galatasaray, T: (0212) 245 4105. Map p. 344, C3.
Gurme Boncuk. Friendly, reliable meyhane catering to a mix of locals and visitors. Simple, short lunch menu. Good fish dishes. Cheerful atmosphere. Asmalı Mescit Cd. 29, T: 0212 245 3169. Map p. 344, C3.
Hacı Abdullah. Old-established place serving traditional Turkish food since 1888. No alcohol. Sakız Ağaçı Cd. 17; T: 0212 293 8561, www.haciabdullah.com.tr. Map p. 344, C2.
Hacı Salih. One of the oldest restaurants in Beyoğlu; simple but excellent food. İstiklal Cd. 201; T: 0212 243 4528 (closed Sun). Map p. 344, C3.
Imroz. Owned by a Greek from the island of Imroz (Gökçeada); specialises in Greek and Turkish meze. Nevizade Sk.; T: 0212 249 9073, www.krependekiimroz.com. Map p. 344, C2.
Kahvedan. Relaxed café-restaurant in Cihangir, for coffee and a snack or full dinner with wine and rakı. Akarsu Ykş. 1; T: 0212 292 4030, www.kahvedancafe.com. Map p. 345, D3.
Refik. Old meyhane under the same management for 40 years; good food and old Beyoğlu atmosphere. Sofyalı Sk. 10–12; T: 0212 243 2834, www.refikrestaurant.com. Map p. 344, C3.
$
Karaköy Lokantası. Good neighbourhood restaurant near the seafront in Galata. Kemankeş Cd. 37A; T: 0212 292 4455. Map p. 344, C4.
| The Bosphorus |
$$$$
Körfez. A de luxe fish restaurant in a cove on the Asian shore of the middle Bosphorus; customers are ferried across by a boat from Rumeli Hisarı. Körfez Cd. 78, Kanlıca; T: 0216 413 4314, www.korfez.com.
Rumeli İskele. Outstanding fish-restaurant housed in the old Rumeli Hisarı ferry landing just below the upper Bosphorus bridge; superb view of the most beautiful stretch of the Bosphorus. Yahya Kemal Cd. 1, Rumeli Hisarı; T: 0212 263 2997, www.rumelihisariiskele.com.
Façyo. The oldest fish restaurant in Tarabya, the beautiful cove on the European shore of the Bosphorus. Kireçburnu Cd. 13, Tarabya; T: 0212 262 0898.
$$$
Ali Baba. Historic fish restaurant founded in 1923 by Ali Baba, who originally operated a barber shop here; traditional Turkish sea-food, with view of the middle to upper Bosphorus. Kireçburnu Cd. 20–22, Kireçburnu; T: 0212 262 0889, www.tarihialibaba.com.
Boğaziçi. The oldest fish-restaurant in Beykoz on the Asian shore of the upper Bosphorus; excellent food and service. Fevzipaşa Cd. 3/1, Beykoz; T: 0216 323 9768, www.bogazicibalik.com.
Borsa. Chain of restaurants that are excellent for getting acquainted with Turkish cooking. Excellent food in a slightly formal three-course setting which means you can go there for a leisurely dinner. There are two main ones: the Adile Sultan Borsa in an old imperial villa at Kandilli on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus (T: 0216 460 0304) and the Boğaziçi Borsa in the Lütfi Kırdar Convention Centre (Gümüş Cd,; T: 0212 232 4201; map p. 345, D1).
Ciya Sofrası. A sort of gastronomic museum from around Turkey, in Kadıköy. Güneşlibahçe Sk. 43, Kadıköy, T: 0216 330 3190, www.ciya.com.tr.
Deniz Park (Aleko’nun Yeri). The only Greek fish restaurants remaining on the Bosphorus; superb view of the strait, particularly under a full moon. Daire Sk. 9, Yeniköy; T: 0212 262 0415.
House Café. (R) Beautifully renovated old house close to the waterfront at Ortaköy. International cuisine with Turkish undertones, in a cheerful, fashionable atmosphere. Outdoor eating in fine weather. Delicious fresh fruit juices and imaginative salads. Doubles as a hotel, part of the House Hotel group (see p. 290). Salhane Sk. 1, Ortaköy; T: 0212 227 2699, www.thehousecafe.com.
İsmet Baba. Long-standing restaurant on the waterfront at Kuzguncuk. Good for dinner or for a long, leisurely lunch. Fine mezes and fish. Çarşı Cd. 96, Kuzguncuk; T: 0216 553 1232, www.ismetbaba.com.tr.
Kanaat. Venerable institution in Üsküdar serving Turkish home cooking. Best to choose yourself from the large array of simmering dishes. Selman-i Pak Cd. 9, Üsküdar; T: 0216 341 5444. Map p. 339, B1.
Kordon. Elegant fish restaurant in the Sumahan on the Water hotel (though the restaurant was here first), just north of Çengelköy. Expansive waterfront terrace. Seasonal fish from the Bosphorus, Black Sea, Marmara and the Aegean. Kuleli Cd. 51, Çengelköy; T: 0216 321 0473, www.kordonbalik.com.
Marina. Excellent fish restaurant housed in the old Kuruçeşme ferry-station; panoramic view of the middle Bosphorus. Vapur İskelesi, Kuruçeşme; T: 0212 287 2653.
$$$
Hacı Baba. Touristy but time-honoured restaurant, just off Taksim Square; terrace overlooking courtyard of the church of Haghia Triada. İstiklal Cd. 49; T: 0212 244 1886, web www.hacibabarest.com. Map p. 345, D2.
Meze by Lemon Tree. (R) Excellent small restaurant opposite the Pera Palace hotel serving beautifully prepared mezes in well-decorated surroundings. Here tradition takes on a new lease of life. Turkish favourites are prepared with real flair; clever taste combinations and well chosen ingredients make this place stand out. Meşrutiyet Cd. 83B; T: 0212 252 8302, www.mezze.com.tr. Map p. 344, C3.
Sensus. Wine bar and café near the Galata Tower stocking good Turkish wines. Büyük Hendek Cd. 5; T: 0212 245 5657. Map p. 344, C4
Asmalı Cavit. Excellent old meyhane with good mezes and a wonderful atmosphere, in a cosy, wood-panelled setting. Asmalı Mescit Cd. T: 0212 292 4950. Map p. 344, C3.
$$
Café Ara. Wonderful café-restaurant off Galatasaray Square, owned by the photographer Ara Güler, whose images of Istanbul adorn the walls. Tosbağa Sk. 8A, Galatasaray, T: (0212) 245 4105. Map p. 344, C3.
Gurme Boncuk. Friendly, reliable meyhane catering to a mix of locals and visitors. Simple, short lunch menu. Good fish dishes. Cheerful atmosphere. Asmalı Mescit Cd. 29, T: 0212 245 3169. Map p. 344, C3.
Hacı Abdullah. Old-established place serving traditional Turkish food since 1888. No alcohol. Sakız Ağaçı Cd. 17; T: 0212 293 8561, www.haciabdullah.com.tr. Map p. 344, C2.
Hacı Salih. One of the oldest restaurants in Beyoğlu; simple but excellent food. İstiklal Cd. 201; T: 0212 243 4528 (closed Sun). Map p. 344, C3.
Imroz. Owned by a Greek from the island of Imroz (Gökçeada); specialises in Greek and Turkish meze. Nevizade Sk.; T: 0212 249 9073, www.krependekiimroz.com. Map p. 344, C2.
Kahvedan. Relaxed café-restaurant in Cihangir, for coffee and a snack or full dinner with wine and rakı. Akarsu Ykş. 1; T: 0212 292 4030, www.kahvedancafe.com. Map p. 345, D3.
Refik. Old meyhane under the same management for 40 years; good food and old Beyoğlu atmosphere. Sofyalı Sk. 10–12; T: 0212 243 2834, www.refikrestaurant.com. Map p. 344, C3.
$
Karaköy Lokantası. Good neighbourhood restaurant near the seafront in Galata. Kemankeş Cd. 37A; T: 0212 292 4455. Map p. 344, C4.
The Bosphorus
$$$$
Körfez. A de luxe fish restaurant in a cove on the Asian shore of the middle Bosphorus; customers are ferried across by a boat from Rumeli Hisarı. Körfez Cd. 78, Kanlıca; T: 0216 413 4314, www.korfez.com.
Rumeli İskele. Outstanding fish-restaurant housed in the old Rumeli Hisarı ferry landing just below the upper Bosphorus bridge; superb view of the most beautiful stretch of the Bosphorus. Yahya Kemal Cd. 1, Rumeli Hisarı; T: 0212 263 2997, www.rumelihisariiskele.com.
Façyo. The oldest fish restaurant in Tarabya, the beautiful cove on the European shore of the Bosphorus. Kireçburnu Cd. 13, Tarabya; T: 0212 262 0898.
$$$
Ali Baba. Historic fish restaurant founded in 1923 by Ali Baba, who originally operated a barber shop here; traditional Turkish sea-food, with view of the middle to upper Bosphorus. Kireçburnu Cd. 20–22, Kireçburnu; T: 0212 262 0889, www.tarihialibaba.com.
Boğaziçi. The oldest fish-restaurant in Beykoz on the Asian shore of the upper Bosphorus; excellent food and service. Fevzipaşa Cd. 3/1, Beykoz; T: 0216 323 9768, www.bogazicibalik.com.
Borsa. Chain of restaurants that are excellent for getting acquainted with Turkish cooking. Excellent food in a slightly formal three-course setting which means you can go there for a leisurely dinner. There are two main ones: the Adile Sultan Borsa in an old imperial villa at Kandilli on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus (T: 0216 460 0304) and the Boğaziçi Borsa in the Lütfi Kırdar Convention Centre (Gümüş Cd,; T: 0212 232 4201; map p. 345, D1).
Ciya Sofrası. A sort of gastronomic museum from around Turkey, in Kadıköy. Güneşlibahçe Sk. 43, Kadıköy, T: 0216 330 3190, www.ciya.com.tr.
Deniz Park (Aleko’nun Yeri). The only Greek fish restaurants remaining on the Bosphorus; superb view of the strait, particularly under a full moon. Daire Sk. 9, Yeniköy; T: 0212 262 0415.
House Café. (R) Beautifully renovated old house close to the waterfront at Ortaköy. International cuisine with Turkish undertones, in a cheerful, fashionable atmosphere. Outdoor eating in fine weather. Delicious fresh fruit juices and imaginative salads. Doubles as a hotel, part of the House Hotel group (see p. 290). Salhane Sk. 1, Ortaköy; T: 0212 227 2699, www.thehousecafe.com.
İsmet Baba. Long-standing restaurant on the waterfront at Kuzguncuk. Good for dinner or for a long, leisurely lunch. Fine mezes and fish. Çarşı Cd. 96, Kuzguncuk; T: 0216 553 1232, www.ismetbaba.com.tr.
Kanaat. Venerable institution in Üsküdar serving Turkish home cooking. Best to choose yourself from the large array of simmering dishes. Selman-i Pak Cd. 9, Üsküdar; T: 0216 341 5444. Map p. 339, B1.
Kordon. Elegant fish restaurant in the Sumahan on the Water hotel (though the restaurant was here first), just north of Çengelköy. Expansive waterfront terrace. Seasonal fish from the Bosphorus, Black Sea, Marmara and the Aegean. Kuleli Cd. 51, Çengelköy; T: 0216 321 0473, www.kordonbalik.com.
Marina. Excellent fish restaurant housed in the old Kuruçeşme ferry-station; panoramic view of the middle Bosphorus. Vapur İskelesi, Kuruçeşme; T: 0212 287 2653.