The Sumahan formula, combining the intimacy of a family-run hotel with that thick-fluffy-towel sense of luxury, continues to attract a loyal following and travel writers superlatives. As it says on the label, Sumahan is on the water; its unique selling points are its waterfront acreage and achingly beautiful views. The twin-level suites have living rooms that open out to their own garden on the Bosphorus. All rooms look out over the water to the First Bridge and, in the distance, the famous skyline of the historical peninsula. The building is a converted distillery. Fresh fruit once arrived on the quayside, to be turned into the eye-watering spirit in Turkish raki. The architect owners, Nedret and Mark Butler, have preserved this functional feel.

Rooms have Scandinavian-style fireplaces. The marble bathrooms with hamam-style fittings are the principal nod to the fact that you are technically in Asia. Being up the Bosphorus, just outside the old-fashioned neighbourhood of Çengelköy, means you have to take an early-morning ferry if you want to be at the Blue Mosque by 9am. However, Sumahan is convenient for the Second Bridge and the financial district.

The key pleasure is not being on top of the city but being able to get away. Once you enter the discreet front door, you enter a private universe tucked away in the side of the shore. Apart from the restaurant next door, also run by the Butlers, there is a terrace café for drinks and good Turkish food. Definitely tony. Nothing so vulgar as a minibar (use room service), but the library is remarkably well stocked.